Daley’s Serves Soul After 100-Plus Years
By Glenn Jeffers, Chicago Tribune
Jun. 8–First impressions: Sitting on a bustling corner of Cottage Grove Avenue and 63rd Street, Daley’s is Woodlawn’s neighborhood restaurant–a nice enough place to grab a good meal without hurting your wallet. The name comes from John Daley, an Irish ironworker who built the restaurant back in 1892 (no relation to Mayor Richard M. Daley). Daley later sold it to Tom Kyros in 1918, said Mike Zarouchliotis, 25, a descendant of Kyros and manager at Daley’s. Back then, 63rd Street was a major thoroughfare in a bustling metropolis, and Daley’s was a destination spot, serving prime rib, shrimp cocktails and the like.
“The menu changed to soul food back in 1965, 1970 as the neighborhood changed,” Zarouchliotis said. Now, Daley’s serves as a community hub.
Set in light and dark browns, the restaurant exudes a homey feel, accentuated by the friendliness of the staff, even to first-time visitors. Expect to be called “sweetie,”"sugar,”"baby” or “doll” within the first few minutes of your visit.
On the plate: Forget the Irish name. This place serves soul food, soul food and food with a side of soul. Steaks and pork chops. Catfish. Macaroni and cheese. Collard greens. Black-eyed peas. The place heavily favors red meats but also serves fish and chicken dishes. Daley’s also has a breakfast menu that offers omelets, pancakes, waffles and other traditional a.m. fare.
At your service: The waitstaff, with all the warmth of your dear ol’ mother, is attentive and quick–except when Chicago comedian Adele Givens (“Beauty Shop,”"The Queens of Comedy”) stops in, as she did for lunch during one recent visit. Then the restaurant freezes and everyone breaks out their camera phones.
Second helpings: The entrees are typically big, juicy and well prepared, from the succulent pork chops to the crispy fried catfish to the chopped steak. The greens are tender and just a little bitter. With a touch of hot sauce, the greens are a perfect, spicy side dish. The corn muffins are addictive: firm on the outside, moist and sweet and so buttery on the inside that they didn’t need the extra pat. Daley’s also boasts some decadent, outsized desserts like triple chocolate cake and strawberry cheesecake.
Take a pass: Though made from scratch, some of the sides weren’t as flavorful as we’d like. Take the macaroni and cheese which, swimming in a creamy yellow-orange sauce, seemed bland. The sweet potatoes oozed with more syrup than we like. And the roasted sirloin, despite being drenched with gravy, was still dry.
Thirst quenchers: Water, tea, coffee, assorted juices and sodas.
Extras: The daily lunch specials, with prices starting at $6.95, include entree, salad or soup, two sides, a choice of biscuits or corn muffins, and a dessert.
Price range: Cereal and juice $1.35-$2.45; pancakes and omelets $3.50-$8.25; sides and salads $1-$6.15; sandwiches $5.75-$6.25; steaks and chops $7.25-$13.95.
Daley’s Restaurant
(2 forks)
809 E. 63rd St. 773-643-6670
Hours: 5 a.m.-9 p.m. daily.
Credit cards: None.
Noise: Conversation friendly.
Delivery: No.
Other: Near the end of the Green Line’s East 63rd branch at 63rd and Cottage Grove.
NEARBY:
Da Vinci Decoded: The Museum of Science and Industry (5700 S. Lake Shore Drive, 773-684-1414) has opened its new exhibit on the painter, inventor and innovator.
Images of America: African-American Voices in Chicago: The DuSable Museum of African-American History (740 E. 56th Pl., 773-947-0600) displays pieces from the collection of Mr. and Mrs. Darrell Walker, including artwork by Beauford Delaney and Alison Saar.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members; meals are paid for by the Tribune.
gjeffers@tribune.com
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Copyright (c) 2006, Chicago Tribune
Distributed by Knight Ridder/Tribune Business News.
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