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Make Tracks for the Train!: Riding Rails Comfortable, Civilized and Nostalgic

Posted on: Sunday, 11 June 2006, 06:00 CDT

By Jeff Bahr, American News, Aberdeen, S.D.

Jun. 11--Most people around here probably don't think much about taking Amtrak, which is a shame.

Because it's a wonderful way to travel. You can enjoy terrific scenery and a relaxed pace while letting somebody else do the driving.

Train travel is a neglected gem in this area, considering that a seat is only three hours away.

Last month, my wife and I took Amtrak from Fargo, N.D., to a destination just past Chicago. We had a good time, and you're invited along to share the experience.

Hop aboard.

A train is the safest form of transportation. You can travel via Amtrak in the middle of winter without giving the weather a thought.

It's also more civilized than air transportation. You don't have to take your shoes and belt off before you get on. On a train in the middle of the country, terrorism is not a consideration.

And it's fun to do something different. After all, who takes the train anymore? Hopping on a train is like stepping into an old movie.

Riding the rails allows you to ask such great questions as, "What time are we getting into Chi-town?"

Things to beware

But there are some things to avoid.

The first rule of train travel is don't take the train if you're impatient to get somewhere.

Trains often run a couple of hours late. They frequently come to a stop in the middle of nowhere to make way for freight traffic. Train travel is like a baseball game. You must bring the proper attitude to enjoy it.

The second rule is never take the top bunk. Lying up there, you find the ceiling uncomfortably close to your face. At least, that's true if you're a big guy. For smaller people, it might not be that big of a problem.

I should also point out that Amtrak passes through Fargo at a less than desirable time. You might call it the middle of the night. Eastbound departures are at 2:28 a.m. The train also pulls back into Fargo at about 3:24 a.m., after which you won't be in the mood to drive back to Aberdeen.

To continue that train of thought, the station in Fargo is small and a bit utilitarian. But on the plus side, you'll be surprised at the number of people you find in it. The last couple of trips we took, quite a few people -- many of them college age -- got on the train with us.

Many benefits

Once you get on the train, the advantages are many.

A train is the easiest way to get to the heart of a major city. You don't have to take a $20 cab ride from the airport. You don't have to battle crazy traffic.

When you leave the station, you're right there, within easy reach of a city's most celebrated attractions. People who enter a big city by rail and then walk to a nice hotel have got life figured out.

The Empire Builder, the train that passes through North Dakota, travels from Chicago to Seattle. The service runs seven days a week.

One thing about a trip is you will meet people, whether you want to or not. If you eat in the dining car, conversation is virtually required, because Amtrak insists on seating four people at each table. If you and a traveling companion are seated directly across from two other people, the only decent thing to do is start talking.

And take it from this shy person: The conversations are effortless, and the people are always interesting.

Food is good

The food, by the way, is very good, and more sophisticated than you probably expect. At dinner, we enjoyed a New York strip steak, priced at $21. According to the menu, "A glass of cabernet is suggested with this entree." We didn't follow that suggestion.

Other dinner choices were the lamb shank ($18.50), seared catfish ($16.50), roast chicken ($14.50) and cheese ravioli ($11).

At lunchtime, the choices included an Angus beef burger ($8.25), a ham and Swiss sandwich ($7.75), a grilled chicken sandwich ($8) and a field green salad ($7.75).

If you travel in a sleeping car, the cost of the meals is included in your trip.

I enjoy sitting in the train, listening to a ballgame on the radio as America passes by the window.

But you don't have to get a sore neck gazing at the passing scene.

The best part of the train is the observation car, where the chairs directly face the outdoors.

In a way, a train gives you a look at America's backyard. The tracks often enter a city through its back door.

Quite a show

Without moving, your view changes constantly. You see athletes practicing outside a high school in Wisconsin, factory workers enjoying a bit of sunshine and drivers waiting for a train to pass so they can go to lunch.

You enjoy great views of the Mississippi River, Wisconsin Dells, wild turkeys, farms and lake cottages. Watching that show unfold is rarely tiresome.

As I sat in the observation car one sunny afternoon, reading and watching America go past, I was very content.

It's fun to lean back and See TRAINS, Page

Trains:X

watch the show. You can combine your love of the outdoors with your love of reclining.

Amtrak sells snacks and drinks in the observation car.

If you're in a sociable mood, you can easily talk to a fellow traveler.

Some people use the additional space to play cards. Sometimes, movies are shown in the observation car.

When you get to Chicago, you can take a look at the city's wonderful old Union Station. Nearby is a food court that has a wide variety of food. If you want, you can go upstairs and enjoy the bustle of downtown Chicago.

Going first class

If you're a sleeping car passenger, you can get a taste of first-class treatment. Those with sleeping compartments are able to use the Metropolitan Lounge in Chicago, a very comfortable area in which you can enjoy free drinks, read and watch TV as you wait for your train. Some people even open their laptops and enjoy free Internet access.

The only time young men talk about trains is in reference to athletes. Baseball has a player nicknamed D-Train. Football has the A-Train.

But even our 20-year-old son, who lives life in a hurry, figured out the joys of train travel. He didn't enjoy his first trip from the Twin Cities because it ran late. But he changed his outlook at Christmas, when he realized he could sit back and not be concerned in the least about wintry weather.

Besides, he knows his mom is addicted to old movies. So going on the train helped him understand a bit more about his mother.

We've always found Amtrak employees to be friendly and helpful. On our trip in May, we received a chatty photocopied three-page letter from our sleeping car attendant. It began, "My name is Doris McCarthy. I have been with Amtrak for about 128 years."

On our previous trip, a man on the intercom pronounced the term "dining car" in a playful way. For months afterward, I went around the house imitating him.

Stadiums nearby

There are benefits for sports fans who take the train.

On our trip, I got a close-up view of two major league baseball stadiums -- Miller Park in Milwaukee and U.S. Cellular Field in Chicago -- as well as a glimpse of a Northern League park in Gary, Ind.

Train travel is comfortable, civilized and nostalgic. You could even say it's exciting.

The romance of the railroad is captured in such names as the Lake Shore Limited, Heartland Flyer, Southwest Chief, Maple Leaf and City of New Orleans.

But I need to point out that not everything about a train is perfect.

For one thing, the trains sometimes wobble. One train we took swayed so much from side to side that sleeping was difficult.

Train travel can be exhausting. Going from Fargo to St. Paul or Milwaukee is a breeze. But going through Chicago adds a layer of effort to the trip. Even with the Metropolitan Lounge, lugging your baggage around can wear you out.

In addition, after sitting in trains and depots for a couple of days, personal mobility seems attractive. You start to crave having wheels of your own.

Some helpful tips

Allow me to share some advice.

If going through Chicago, bring plenty of dollar bills. The Red Caps are extremely helpful. But in cities like Chicago, tips are expected.

Traveling in tight quarters can sometimes cause marital tensions. More than once, my wife told me where to get off. And it wasn't even our stop.

Walking aboard a moving train is part of what makes the experience fun. But you should also be aware that trains are subject to sudden stops. So you need to carry beverages with care.

I saw a guy who had just loaded up on treats splash an entire drink upon a stranger when we came to a sudden stop.

Another note: You don't have to go east. I've never taken the train to Montana. But many people say Glacier National Park, through which the Empire Builder passes, is unmatched for its beauty.

You never know how much longer Amtrak will be around. But while it's still here, we should take advantage of it.

Enough for a while

To be honest, after taking two Amtrak trips in about 15 months, I don't want to look at a train again for a while. When we met a woman who was just embarking on a month-long tour of North America, I was glad I wasn't her.

But the next time I drive 500 miles, or suffer through the ordeals found in airports, I know that a train will start looking very good again.

Then I'll know that, as the O'Jays once sang, "it's time to get on board."

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Copyright (c) 2006, American News, Aberdeen, S.D.

Distributed by Knight Ridder/Tribune Business News.

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Source: American News (Aberdeen, S.D.)

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