Bike to Basics; Basic Accessories for a Safe Ride; Choosing the Right Bike
Posted on: Wednesday, 24 November 2004, 15:00 CST
In the first in a series on outdoor recreational pursuits, Karen Clark explores the ins and outs of taking up mountainbiking. If you have a hankering to get out in the great outdoors, then mountainbiking is one way to do it without too much drama or expense.
In Nelson, there are plenty of places to bike off the tarsealed roads, using cycling trails, four-wheel-drive tracks and gravel roads.
But Nelson Mountain Bike Club publicity officer Jane Rose says if you're a newcomer to the sport, it's best to team up with someone who's done a bit of mountainbiking, and can show you suitable tracks for your skill level.
Not only is it safer biking in a group, but it's also more fun and enables you to pick up tips from other riders, she says.
"Find someone who's sympathetic to the fact that you're starting out,'' she says.
One way of meeting other mountainbikers is through the club, which organises regular rides and races, and holds an annual bike skills workshop for women. There are many informal riding groups around too.
Rose says it's best to tackle flat, easy tracks or gravel roads first and build up some strength and fitness before tackling more difficult terrain.
And if you want to bike off-road, be prepared to get muddy and fall off, she says.
"To ride single track you do need some skills, and to learn those skills you need to be prepared to fall off. But getting muddy is all part of the fun.''
If you're buying a mountainbike, you need to be aware that not all bikes with fat tyres are necessarily designed for riding off- road.
Stewarts Cycle City owner Mike Watson says the cheaply made bikes aren't built to withstand the rigours of riding over rocks, tree roots and other obstacles, and won't last long.
But he says you can buy a decent new mountainbike for about $700, and for about $1500 you'll get a strong, lightweight bike with good quality componentry.
"The more you spend, the more high-tech the components will be and the lighter the frame will be. I would advise people to buy the best quality they can afford.''
Watson says it's also important to get the right size bike for your body, and set it up so you're in a comfortable riding position.
You should raise or lower the seat to suit the length of your legs - for normal riding conditions, you should be able to straighten out your legs almost fully on the down stroke of the pedal, so you have just a slight bend in the knees.
If the knees are too bent, you won't get as much power and the knees will hurt after a while.
You should also be able to reach the handlebars comfortably, so your arms aren't too stretched or bent.
If you ride too bent over, you'll end up with a sore back, but if you sit too upright, you'll find it difficult keeping the front wheel down on steep climbs.
Further information on the Nelson Mountain Bike Club can be obtained from most bike shops.
q Next week: Kayaking.
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Helmet: A helmet is a must to protect your head if you fall off. It's best to buy a new helmet rather than a secondhand one, so you know it hasn't been damaged.
Make sure the helmet fits firmly and adjust the straps so it sits level on the head and and doesn't slide forward or backward.
New helmets cost from about $40 to $200.
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Gloves: Biking gloves reduce jarring from the handlebars, absorb sweat from the hands and arms, and protect the hands if you crash. They cost about $25 to $50.
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Drinking systems: You need to drink when you're riding to prevent dehyradation, particularly in summer.
A plastic sports drink bottle is the cheapest drinking system, costing as little as $6.
More expensive systems consist of a plastic bladder with a tube, designed to be carried on the back. They cost from about $50 for basic models, up to $200 for ones combined with backpacks.
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Tools: You should carry a pump and puncture repair kit or spare inner tube at all times, because you could be a long way from home if you get a puncture. Pumps cost from $8.
Other handy tools include allen keys, screwdrivers and a chain tool for fixing a broken chain. You can buy these in kits, costing from about $20 to $40.
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Clothing: Special bike shorts which have padding around the crotch and backside make riding a more comfortable experience, particularly on long rides. They cost from about $60 to $150.
Frame: Most mountainbikes have aluminium frames and generally the lighter the frame, the better quality it is. To choose the right- size frame, you should be able to stand over the bike with your legs straddling either side, and have a 5cm to 15cm gap between your crotch and the top bar of the bike frame.
Shocks: Most mountainbikes these days have shock absorbers on the front wheel at least, if not the front and back. Shocks prevent the body being shaken about too much when you're riding on bumpy surfaces, and increase your control. Dual shocks provide more comfort and control than front shocks alone but also tend to make the bike heavier. The better quality shocks can be adjusted to suit your body weight.
Gears: Mountainbikes generally have 21, 24 or 27 gears. The more gears a bike has, the easier it is to tackle steeper gradients.
Brakes: There are two types of braking systems: disc brakes (cable or hydraulic) or V-brakes. Disc brakes are more expensive, but you don't have to squeeze so hard with the hands to operate them, and they will perform better when the wheel rims are wet.
Seats: Seats come in a range of shapes and sizes, with some designed specifically for men and others for women.
Pedals: There are two types of pedals: those which suit any shoe, and those designed for a specific bike shoe to clip into. The clip-in system is more expensive, but improves pedalling efficiency.
Tyres: There are an array of tread patterns and widths to choose from, and generally the knobblier the tread, the tougher terrain it is designed for. There are also tyres designed specifically for front wheels, back wheels, dry conditions and wet conditions.
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Source: Nelson Mail, The
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