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Forest an Exhibit of Land Management Evolution

Posted on: Tuesday, 5 July 2005, 18:00 CDT

The Myles Standish State Forest was seeded in places with nonnative species during the Depression. Elsewhere, wildfire suppression has created unnaturally dense tree canopies and underbrush.

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PLYMOUTH - Despite its historic namesake, Myles Standish State Forest is less about North America's early European settlers than about biological diversity, environmental change and modern-day recreation.

Standish, the military leader of the Pilgrims who arrived in Plymouth aboard the Mayflower in 1620, is honored in name only at Southeastern Massachusetts' largest public recreation area, a few miles inland from coastal Plymouth.

The nearly 15,000-acre forest has five camping areas, leased cabins and a 15-mile network of paved bicycle paths. But its highlight is one of the East Coast's largest remaining examples of a unique ecosystem known as pitch pine/scrub oak.

Relatively short canopies of spindly trees cover shrub undergrowth that thrives here despite rocky, sandy soil and brisk coastal winds -- characteristics also found on parts of Long Island and coastal Maine.

The rocks are remnants of long-ago glaciers that scoured the landscape, leaving low pockets of ground that take two forms today at Myles Standish: the park's 16 so-called "kettle" ponds, and land depressions that host unique plant species and rare moths, butterflies and beetles.

The shores of the kettle ponds, most of them tightly hemmed in by trees, are extremely sensitive to trampling, with barriers and signs posted to indicate sensitive areas. Water levels in the depressions fluctuate dramatically, nurturing unique plants.

The biodiversity found in the dry depressions is the result of unusual mini-climates created when cold air settles in low spots, leading to frost that can stick around as late as June. Leaves mature slowly in those areas, providing food for caterpillars at times of year when they otherwise would be unable to feed on more mature leaves from trees on higher ground.

"They're some of the rarest species around," said Jim Rassman, a regional forester for the Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation, which manages the forest.

Myles Standish's unusual mix of plants, insects and birds, such as fish-eating osprey, draw birdwatchers and other naturalists. The forest also features a state-owned cranberry bog -- one of the subjects of summer interpretive programs that educate the public about the forest's unique features.

Visitors can wander under forest canopy that in some areas closely resembles the tree stands in Standish's time. Demand to log the forest has been limited by the low commercial value of its relatively small pines.

"Some areas were not heavily cut over, even in Colonial times," Rassman said.

A few areas were re-seeded with nonnative pine species by Depression-era workers from the Civilian Conservation Corps. Those areas stand in contrast to most of the forest because of the uniformity of the trees' size and species.

Wildfire suppression has left behind unnaturally dense tree canopies and underbrush in some areas. To encourage a more natural environment, selective fires have been set in the forest over the past four years.

"The changing ways in which we manage the land can all be seen in this one place," Rassman said.

Amy Nelson, a 28-year-old Wrentham resident who began visiting her family's leased cabin at Myles Standish during childhood, frequents the forest's bike paths.

"I love to go bike riding, but I'm not a mountain biker," said Nelson, who coordinates natural and historic interpretive programs for the state at sites including Myles Standish. "So I like that fact that it has paved trails that wind through the forest."

While visitors can easily find tranquility, there's plenty of room for livelier recreation at the five camping areas, cabins and pond beaches that draw swimmers and fishermen. The forest also has 35 miles of equestrian trails and 13 miles of hiking trails. In- season hunting is allowed, and two areas of the forest are stocked with game birds in October and November.

"When I'm out on the trail riding my bike, it's a quiet place," Nelson said. "But on the ponds, it's pretty busy in the summer."

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IF YOU WANT TO GO

WHERE: In Southeastern Massachusetts, near the towns of Plymouth and Carver.

From Route 495, take 495 to Exit 2 (South Carver) and the intersection with Route 58. Take Route 58 north on Cranberry Road and follow signs to the park.

FACILITIES: Five camping areas, leased cabins, 15 miles of paved bicycle trails, 35 miles of equestrian trails and 13 miles of hiking trails.

NATURAL ATTRACTIONS: 16 ponds, one of the largest contiguous pitch pine/scrub oak ecosystems north of Long Island, rare plant and insect species.

ADMISSION: Free; camping fees vary.

MORE INFORMATION: Call the forest office at (508) 866-2526 or visit the forest's Web site at www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/southeast/ mssf.htm

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A portion of a red pine plantation at the Myles Standish State Forest. The forest canopy in some areas resembles the tree stands in the time of Standish, the military leader of the Pilgrims who arrived in Plymouth aboard the Mayflower in 1620. A highlight of the forest is one of the East Coast's largest remaining examples of a unique ecosystem known as pitch pine/scrub oak.

AP PHOTO / LISA POOLE

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Dale Sanford, 18, of Wareham, walks through the water recently as Canada geese swim at College Pond in Myles Standish State Forest.

AP PHOTO / LISA POOLE

Source: Providence Journal

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