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Fliers Getting Boxed in for Meals

Posted on: Saturday, 11 February 2006, 12:00 CST

By Mark Skertic and Bruce Japsen, Chicago Tribune

Feb. 11--About an hour before boarding her noon United Airlines flight from Chicago's O'Hare International Airport to New York for a weekend Valentine's getaway, Leslie Auerbach paid $9.85 for bottle of Diet Coke and a prepackaged Quizno's honey-mustard ham-and-swiss sandwich.

"That's criminal," she said of the price. Not too long ago, she and others could have waited for their in-flight meal. But the days when everyone on board fielded the important chicken-or-beef question appear to be gone for good. After more than a year, the nation's two largest airlines, United and American, are more committed than ever to boxed snack packs.

Today's airline food is a collection of packages in a box and has morphed from a loss leader to a bit of a moneymaker, or at least a revenue-neutral service, on most major carriers. They still are experimenting with offerings and pricing to find the right mix.

This week, Elk Grove Township-based United made the first change in its snack-pack lineup, introducing the Right Bite, which it describes as a heart-healthy box meal. Inside is a selection of packaged items that do not contain artery-clogging trans fat.

It joins three other snack-box choices, selling for $5 each. To make room for its newest offering, United retired a box filled with snacks aimed at children.

American Airlines also serves boxed meals, recently announcing raising the price of snack boxes to $3 to $4 each. American also sells a selection of wraps and sandwiches for $5.

Those in first- and business-class still get a meal, as will all passengers on most international flights. But for the typical domestic traveler, the only options are to remember to bring along something to munch on or buy on board.

Developing the selections involves more than finding a half-dozen items that will fit inside a snack box, said Tom McGrane, United's director of media and retail programs. His job includes visiting food shows, where he looks over and samples items for possible inclusion in the boxes.

Offering a healthier box made sense, he said.

"We look at food trends," McGrane said. "We know trans fats have a bad rep, and we thought this would fit as an overall meal."

The trouble with tuna

In addition to taste testers, the latest offering had to pass the scrutiny of the Transportation Security Administration. The federal agency was not worried about the food quality, but it had some doubts about the tuna's packaging.

"They were worried about the lid," McGrane said. The lid of the can couldn't have a sharp edge when it was peeled away.

There also were concerns about odors. Some have an aversion to the smell of fish, so United had to find a brand that had pleasant taste but would not be objectionable to those sitting nearby. The rest of the box is filled with items that included hummus dip, pita chips and organic raisins.

"We're looking for things we hope will appeal to customers as an overall meal," McGrane said.

United also has found some food vendors eager to work with the airline, believing it could help put their products before more consumers, McGrane said.

The benefit to a company of having its product in a snack box is difficult to measure, said Robert Goldin, analyst at Chicago-based food consultant Technomic Inc. He is among those who won't purchase the boxes because they represent something the airline industry largely has taken away from fliers.

"You've got a situation where some who are ordering are really not happy about having to fork over money for something they used to get for free," Goldin said. "So you've already got kind of a negative mindset."

United sells snack boxes on Ted flights longer than 2 1/2 hours and on mainline flights longer than 3 1/2 hours. Sales rates typically range from 15 percent to 30 percent of the passengers buying a box, depending on the length of the flight, said spokeswoman Robin Urbanski.

Carry-on eats

The airlines also are seeing an increase in the number of people carrying food on board. A O'Hare spokeswoman cautioned against attributing the rise in food and beverage sales at the airport directly to the decrease in airline meals, but sales were up about 22 percent in 2004.

Airport restaurants are seeing an increased demand for food that can be easily eaten outside the restaurant, said David Milobsky, spokesman for HMS Host Corp. The company operates several airport restaurants at O'Hare, including Chili's and Wolfgang Puck Express.

"You've always been able to get carry-out food, but there's more emphasis on food that can be prepared for takeaway," Milobsky said.

At O'Hare, Terry Hill, a 40-year-old banking executive from Wilmette, spent $12 on a plate-size tomato-and-cheese pizza from Wolfgang Puck's in United's B Concourse terminal.

He likes the idea of on-board food for purchase.

"I have four kids, so if it brings down the cost of traveling, that is a good thing," said Hill. "Let the consumer make the choice."

He hasn't tried one of the in-flight boxes, but Hill recommended the airlines keep it simple: a banana, yogurt and cereal for breakfast, and a sandwich with condiments for lunch and dinner offerings. He said airlines have a history of getting into trouble when they try to be all things to all people.

"The fancier they get, the worse it is going to be," he predicted.

Continental holds on

Not all airlines have followed the lead of United and others. Continental Airlines is the last mainline carrier to still serve meals on flights.

"We have all along, and we haven't wavered from that policy," said spokeswoman Julie King. Flights under three hours get a sandwich or similar entree, while longer-haul trips get a warm meal.

Unlike its competition, Continental owns its own caterer, Chelsea Food Service, which also prepares meals for several of its rivals.

"We also haven't pulled blankets and pillows off the aircraft," King said. "We think it's a strategy that will pay off for us in the long run."

Skertic reported from Chicago, and Japsen from Chicago and New York

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A little something to snack on

Snack boxes on flights are becoming more popular, as the typical domestic traveler who wants something more than complimentary pretzels or peanuts must remember to bring food along or buy on board. Airlines have found the offerings to be, at the very least, a break-even service. Here are some of the items offered on the two largest U.S. carriers, American and United:

United

$5 per box

Jumpstart: Fruit bowl, bagel chips, cheese spread, sunflowerseed butter, cereal bar, trail mix, biscotti, coffee candy

Minimeal: Parmesan cheese spread, salami slices, potato chips, stoned-wheat crackers, applesauce, cookies

Quickpick: Beef jerky, cheese snacks, tortilla chips and salsa, trail mix, chocolate-chip cookie

American

Range from $3 to $4

Morning snack box: Snack bars, cookies, dried cranberries, crackers, cheese spread, granola

Afternoon snack box: Crackers, cured meat, dried cranberries, crackers, cheese spread, mixed nuts

American Eagle snack pack: Fruit and oatmeal bar, raisins, crackers, cheese spread, cookies

Source: United and American Airlines

mskertic@tribune.com

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Source: Chicago Tribune

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