The News-Sentinel, Fort Wayne, Ind., Main Course Column: Toscani Adding Flavor to Heart of the City
By Carol Tannehill, The News-Sentinel, Fort Wayne, Ind.
Apr. 1–Toscani Pizzeria is a welcome addition to Fort Wayne’s downtown dining scene.
Mike and Julie Harris’ cozy cafe at 120 W. Wayne St. reminds me of the restaurants in
Georgetown, the pristine little enclave in Washington, D.C. Toscani is a tiny oasis amid tall buildings, busy streets and bustling sidewalk traffic — a reason to at least linger longer in the heart of the city, if not to make a special trip.
The Harrises have done a beautiful job of turning a former Roly Poly rolled-sandwich shop into a pretty trattoria. The faux-finished orange walls are adorned with ancient-looking green men, oversize Chianti bottles, vintage Campari posters and other Tuscan touches. Dark wood cafe tables wear white cloths and sheets of fresh white paper.
The restaurant was filling fast by the time my friend and I made our first exploratory pass down Wayne Street. We drove around the block and settled for a metered parking space on Harrison Street. The two-block walk to Toscani Pizzeria added to that “strolling around Georgetown” feeling. I can’t remember the last time I parked on a downtown street just to go to a restaurant.
The eatery was busy, but my friend and I didn’t wait more than two minutes for a table next to the front window. A professional young server named Hanna greeted us warmly, took drink orders and delivered them promptly. She answered questions about the daily pasta, soup and dessert specials — our short statures and a tall wall prevented us from seeing the menu board mounted in a far corner of the restaurant.
The food didn’t take long to arrive, considering the large number of dine-in and carryout customers, and the wait was pleasant enough. My friend and I savored the spring sunshine and watched continual columns of passers-by. It was difficult to converse, however: An incessant hum of chatter punctuated by clanking dishes, masculine goodbyes and female laughter forced us to keep repeating ourselves.
My friend found the dining-room din energizing. I thought it was annoying. We agreed that the acoustics are probably a problem only at peak times.
My house salad, mounded attractively on a white china plate, was a lovely combination of tender greens, red onions, shredded Parmesan cheese and crusty seasoned croutons. The Italian dressing — my choice — was merely OK. I might not have minded a boring bottled dressing on a so-so salad; it’s just that this one had the potential to be great.
My friend’s 8-inch black olive-and-anchovy pizza ($5.95) bore evidence of hands-on preparation. The golden circle appeared to have little finger divots along its irregular edges. The crust’s texture was a happy hybrid of warm pretzel and a crispy cracker, and the fragrance of yeast was still apparent.
The rustic tomato sauce had personality, as if a mischievous Italian grandmother had added some secret herbs and spices. The shredded cheese, black olives and slender anchovy fillets were applied in ideal quantities, at least according to my friend’s tastes.
My sausage roll ($7.50) was a show-stopper that required an extra-long oblong dish. This foot-long football of sausage, tomato sauce and blended cheeses was wrapped in tender dough and sealed with a hand-pinched, dorsal seam. Oregano-scented steam poured from the crust when I sliced the roll across the middle, and the savory filling oozed onto the black platter.
Let me tell you, finishing just half that mammoth sausage roll was a Herculean labor. Pleasurable, but Herculean. The remainder, packed in a foam container, went to a lucky co-worker with a big appetite.
My friend and I had the good sense to share a wedge of really good tiramisu ($2.75). All the components were there: Squishy, liqueur-soaked spongecake. Melt-in-the-mouth mascarpone, sweetened and whipped to barely-thereness. A generous dusting of espresso powder.
Toscani Pizzeria is just what Fort Wayne’s developing downtown needs. You can’t have a renaissance without a few masterpieces.
————
120 W. Wayne St.
Phone: 423-6706
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 3-9 p.m. Sunday
Handicapped accessible: Yes
Menu sampler:
–Sweet hand-pinched sausage pizza, 12-inch $8.75 and 14-inch $11
–Meatball pizza (meatballs sliced thin with a special blend of cheeses), 12-inch $11 and 14-inch $13.50
–Chicken BBQ pizza (marinated chicken, BBQ sauce, onion, peppers and cheeses), 12-inch $12 and 14-inch $15
–Minestrone soup, $2 cup and $3.25 bowl
–The Hugo sandwich (ham, capicolla, salami, lettuce/cabbage mix, cheeses, onion and special sauce), 6-inch $4.95, 12-inch $7.50
–Stromboli sandwich (Italian sausage, onion, green pepper, pizza sauce and cheese blend), 6-inch $4.50, 12-inch $6.95
–Ham and cheese sandwich, $3.95 6-inch, 12-inch $6.25
–Capo cuoco salad (leaf lettuce, sliced pepperoni, ham, black olives, tomato, grated cheese blend, Parmesan cheese with choice of dressing), $5.75
–Grilled pollo salad (leaf lettuce, marinated chicken, green onions, mushrooms, grated cheddar/Monterey cheese, choice of dressing), $5.95
–Italian cottage cheese, $1.50
–Garlic bread (2 slices), $1.50
–Bruschetta (2 slices topped with tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and pepper flakes), $1.90
–Pasta (daily specials), price varies
–Soups (daily specials), price varies
Every Saturday, Carol Tannehill describes a one-time dining experience at an area restaurant. The News-Sentinel pays for meals. This column is the personal opinion of the writer and does not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of The News-Sentinel. You can reach her at 461-8363 or ctannehill@news-sentinel.com [mailto:ctannehill@news-sentinel.com].
—–
Copyright (c) 2006, The News-Sentinel, Fort Wayne, Ind.
Distributed by Knight Ridder/Tribune Business News.
For information on republishing this content, contact us at (800) 661-2511 (U.S.), (213) 237-4914 (worldwide), fax (213) 237-6515, or e-mail reprints@krtinfo.com.
Milan:CPR,