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Canadian Rockies Adventure Presents Spectacular Sights

February 19, 2007
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LAKE LOUISE, Alberta, Canada _ What’s the perfect way to end the perfect hike at the perfect place in the Canadian Rockies?

To have a spot of tea, of course. The Canadians are, after all, a civilized bunch.

Son Andy and I had that tea at a rustic teahouse high atop stunningly beautiful Lake Louise in the heart of Banff National Park.

From the teahouse, actually a two-story chalet, we could look out at Mount Victoria, an imposing rock fortress of a mountain at 11,350 feet, and Mount Lefroy at 11,290 feet.

The Plain of the Six Glaciers hike was a 6.8-mile round-trip trek that began at Lake Louise in front of the classy Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, the area’s signature hotel.

We hiked the length of the lake on a paved trail and then ascended next to the gurgling creek through spruce and fir. An open area along the trail was the site of a long-ago avalanche. We then climbed on switchbacks through a forest of stunted trees.

Mountain goats grazed above us, and the mountain scenery improved and got closer with each step.

In all, we climbed 1,200 feet to an elevation of 6,800 feet. We enjoyed our tea and savored the awesome high-altitude views, including the six glaciers.

The backcountry teahouse was built in the mid-1920s by the Canadian Pacific Railroad. It is open from mid-June to mid-October. Supplies arrive via horses.

The Plain of the Six Glaciers Trail draws big crowds.

At one point, the line of hikers climbing upward on the trail in front of us looked like a photograph of religious pilgrims ascending into the Himalayas.

The trail continues past the teahouse for a short distance over glacial terrain. It ends at a talus slope below the high peaks.

The Plain of the Six Glaciers may be the quintessential Banff hike and it is one of the most popular treks in the Canadian Rockies.

Lake Louise at 5,680 feet elevation is likely the most-visited spot in Banff and is undoubtedly the most photographed lake in the Canadian Rockies. It gets upwards of 10,000 visitors a day during the peak tourist season.

The lake is 1 { miles long and about 1,640 feet at its widest. It is up to 295 feet deep. It is cold. The warmest it gets is 39 degrees in August.

Its color ranges from emerald green to turquoise to peacock blue, depending on available light. Glacial deposits contribute to its unusual colorings.

The lake was discovered in 1882 by railroad worker Tom Wilson. The Indians called it the Lake of the Little Fishes. He dubbed it Emerald Lake. It was later changed to honor Queen Victoria’s daughter, Louise Caroline Alberta.

It is 35 miles northwest of the town of Banff.

Canada established the Rocky Mountains Park in 1885 around hot springs at Banff, and the Lake Louise area was added to the park in 1892.

Banff is the second largest of Canada’s mountain parks, behind Jasper. The park covers 2,564 square miles and includes the town of Banff and its 7,700 residents.

It is the crown jewel of Canada’s national parks. It gets upwards of 4.5 million visitors a year, mostly in July and August.

It lies 80 miles west of Calgary, not far from the Alberta-British Columbia border.

The Canadian Pacific Railway built its line to the Banff-Lake Louise in 1885. It built hotels and trails to bring tourists to the mountains.

Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Kootenay and three provincial parks have been designated by the United Nations as a World Heritage Site. It covers 10,236 square miles.

Banff is a park with magnificent scenery from snow-capped peaks and never-ending forests to wild rivers, glacial lakes. It is a park with more than 1,000 glaciers and 480 bodies of water.

You might see grizzly bears, moose, elk, mountain goats, deer, bighorn sheep and cougars.

Banff contains nearly 900 miles of trails and is known for its day hiking. The center of the hiking activity is at Lake Louise and Lake Moraine. Those trails are among the most used in the Rockies.

Parking lots at Lake Louise and Lake Moraine may be full from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Go early or late. Or you can hike in or take a shuttle from the hamlet of Lake Louise.

Other hiking options in that area include Larch Valley, Lake Agnes and Paradise Valley.

The park’s most popular backpacking regions are the Egypt lakes west of Banff and the Boulder Pass-Skoki Valley east of Lake Louise.

The town of Banff is a bustling community with more than 100 restaurants, hotels and lodges, shops, galleries, museums, historical sites and outfitters.

Activities in and around the town include skiing and winter sports, rafting, trail rides, bicycling, canoeing, nature watching and helicopter trips to remote spots.

Lodging in Banff fills up quickly and can be pricey.

It reminded me of Jackson Hole, Wyo., although smaller and a little more glitzy.

In one person’s view, here are five things visitors to Banff park should do:

_Visit the imposing, castle-like Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. It was built by the Canadian Pacific Railroad in 1888. It was rebuilt after a 1927 fire and now offers more than 700 rooms. It is pricey but you can stop by for a meal or afternoon tea. It’s worth seeing.

_Visit must-see Moraine Lake. It is nine miles by winding road from Lake Louise. It is half the size of Lake Louise but just as awesome and rivals it for beauty. The lake is set in rugged country in the Valley of the Ten Peaks. It is a Kodak moment waiting to happen. You can hike or just gawk at the scenery. The access road will be closed from early October to late May.

_Ride the gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain. It will carry you from 5,194 feet to the 7,480-foot summit. It offers a sweeping view of the town of Banff, the mountains that ring it and the nearby Bow River Valley.

_Paddle a canoe along the Bow River. It is a major feature of the town of Banff, and liveries offer rentals. It’s a pretty paddle and a good way to spot wildlife. Longer paddles can also be arranged. You can also rent a bicycle and pedal along the riverside trails.

_Make a stop along the Icefields Parkway at the northern end of the park. There are stops with killer vistas and stellar hiking options. Bow Summit, the highest spot along the 140-mile parkway to Jasper at 6,875 feet, features views of turquoise Peyto Lake and you can avoid the tourists and hike 1.9 miles to Bow Summit. Helen Lake is another popular option off the parkway.

Banff park operates two visitor centers: one in Banff and one at Lake Louise.

The park has 13 campgrounds with more than 2,000 sites. Fees range from $14 to $33 a night.

Park admission fees are $9 a day for an adult or $18 a day for a family.

For park information, write to Banff National Park at Box 900, Banff, Alberta T1L 1K2, 403-762-1550. The Internet site is www.pc.gc.ca/banff.

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(c) 2007, Akron Beacon Journal (Akron, Ohio).

Visit Akron Beacon Journal Online at http://www.ohio.com/.

Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.

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PHOTOS (from MCT Photo Service, 202-383-6099): WLT-CANADAROCKIES

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