Tips for Growing Green, Green Grass at Home

By Melody Parker, Waterloo-Cedar Falls Courier, Iowa

May 6–If the grass always seems greener in the other guy’s yard …

If you’re green with envy as you play through at the local golf course …

If you long for a lawn that will curl your neighbor’s toes …

There are ways to make turfgrass healthier and simplify lawn care to achieve the lawn of your dreams, says Jeff Wendel, executive director of Iowa Turfgrass Institute, based in Ames.

Mow high

Grass will grow thicker, Wendel says. Mowing low damages turf and makes it more susceptible to disease and insect damage. Never mow off more than 1/3 of the length to maintain your lawn at 2 inches tall, but never let the lawn grow taller than 3 inches tall. A lawn is composed of a higher cut encourages grass plants to set down deeper roots and shades out annual weeds.

Keep your mower sharp.

“People want lush green and they look at golf courses like its some sort of magic trick — or lots of chemicals — that keeps them looking fresh and green. It’s simple. They keep their mower blades sharp to shear grass leaves. A dull blade damages grass leaves and stresses grass plants. When grass is stressed, it uses up carbohydrates kept in reserve and when we get adverse weather like heat or drought, weeds become competitive … and you head down that road you don’t want to travel,” Wendel explains.

Cool-season Kentucky bluegrass is the predominate lawn cover in Iowa. In the summer months, grass can turn brown and go dormant. The other option is to water turfgrass during dry weather to keep the lawn growing and thriving.

No lawn needs daily watering, Wendel maintains. Well-hydrated turfgrass is rich green in color. Water stress is usually indicated when the grass turns bluish-green or takes on a purplish hue. “Or if you step on the lawn and the footprint stays put instead of grass springing back,” Wendel says.

Most Iowa lawns need 1 to 1 /2 inches of water per week. Iowa State University Extension Service experts recommend applying the amount in a single application or two applications spaced three or four days apart. Frequent, light applications of water promotes lush growth but shallow roots, which is less drought tolerant and more susceptible to pest problems.

Water in the morning. This allows water to soak in with less evaporation. Watering in the day or afternoon usually translates into high evaporation and the possibility that blowing winds may cause uneven water distribution. Evening waters can set lawn up for disease problems, according to ISU Extension Service.

During drought periods, turfgrass stops growing and turns brown, although crows and roots are alive. Turfgrass can remain dormant for 4 to 6 weeks without damage. Any longer and the grass could die. Apply 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water in a single application to lawns dormant for more than 4 to 6 weeks. Water again about a week later.

Newly seeded: Keep upper 1 inch of soil moist with frequent, light water applications. Water newly seeded areas once or twice a day. With moisture and temperatures above 55 F or higher, most turfgrasses should germinate in 2 to 3 weeks. Then water seedlings once or twice daily. When turfgrass reaches 1 to 2 inches, reduce watering but water more deeply. After turf has been mowed 2 or 3 times, water once a week.

New sod: Water once or twice a day for the first 7-10 days to moisten sod and upper 1 inch of soil. After sod roots to soil (about 10 days), gradually reduce watering frequency but water deeply. After sod has been mowed three or four times, deep watering once a week should be enough.

Feeding grass: Cool-season grass should be fertilized in spring and fall — growing season. Fall feeding results in early greening next spring, and is considered the best time to fertilize. Apply according to directions. Don’t start too early in spring.

Weed control: Weed-and-feed products should be applied with a spreader when weed leaves are moist (usually in the morning before dew burns off). A liquid broadleaf weed killer should be applied to well-watered weeds that are actively growing. “Pre-emergent treatment in spring before weeds start growing is important to control annual weeds. There are different ways to handle broadleaf weeds, including simply digging them up. It depends on your philosophy of what to use on your lawn,” Wendel says.

Aeration: Aerating benefits lawns by loosening soil and reducing thatch buildup. Don’t aerate when soil is dry and compacted; water well or aerate after a drenching rain. Spring and fall are best for cool-season grasses; its OK in summer if the lawn is well-watered.

Pests: Grub populations vary from year to year. Grubs do little damage in spring; damage usually appears in fall when it’s too late to do anything. If you see damage in fall, treat the following spring.

Choosing a lawn-care service:

1. Decide what you want — and how often — from a service.

2. Get recommendations from friends and neighbors.

3. Ask for a lawn inspection and free estimate of services. Inquire about soil testing and use of fertilizers and chemical or organic controls for weeds and harmful pests.

4. Is a contract required? What are fees for service calls and cancellations? Is an annual fee required up front?

5. Check with Better Business Bureau for information on a lawn-care company.

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Copyright (c) 2007, Waterloo-Cedar Falls Courier, Iowa

Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.

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