Fort Worth Star-Telegram, Texas, Eats Beat Column: Out West, Joe Allen's Steakhouse Spiffs Up
Posted on: Friday, 17 March 2006, 06:00 CST
By Bud Kennedy, Fort Worth Star-Telegram, Texas
Mar. 17--For a great country steakhouse, drive two hours west.
Three of Texas' best steakhouses are in or near Abilene. And one has a sharp new location.
Joe Allen's, an Abilene landmark for 25 years, has moved around a corner into a sprawling new steakhouse on South 11th Street.
The old location was a tumbledown former warehouse south of downtown. The new location replaced an old peanut warehouse. And the new place already feels as comfortable as an old boot.
Joe Allen's still has its barbecue serving line, dishing up thick-sliced brisket, first-class sausage, ribs, ham and chicken for $7-$10.
But the real draw is the new full-service steakhouse and bar. Now, you can sit down and order the mesquite-grilled sirloin, T-bone and rib-eye steaks ($11-$20).
On a visit this week, Joe Allen's was better than ever. A filet mignon ($19.95) came with the lunch vegetables: new potatoes, green beans and excellent stewed cabbage. The server brought plenty of home-baked loaves of white bread, plus cornbread and jalapeno cornbread.
We weren't hungry enough to try the
1 1/2-inch-thick rib-eye or the huge porterhouse for two.
On the barbecue side, the highlight was the sausage, both mild and jalapeno-cheese.
Joe Allen's is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week at 301 S. 11th St. (Texas 36) at South Treadaway Boulevard, about four miles off Interstate 20. Take Loop 322 south to Texas 36 and drive west. The phone number is (325) 672-6082; www.joeallens.com.
Besides Joe Allen's, here are two steak stops out west:
Perini Ranch Steakhouse, on Farm Road 89 in Buffalo Gap, is a rural ranch serving chef Tom Perini's mesquite steaks, prime rib and side dishes such as green chile hominy. It's a great weekend drive; call (325) 572-3339, www.periniranch.com.
Fort Griffin General Merchandise and Beehive Saloon, on U.S. 180 in Albany, is even closer and was rated the best small-town steakhouse in Texas by Texas Monthly magazine. It's open Tuesdays through Saturdays; call (325) 762-3034.
The rundown on St. Patrick's dining was in the Wednesday edition of Eats Beat.
But yes, J. Gilligan's Bar and Grill in Arlington will be hosting a street party and serving plenty of its potato "Irish nachos" today; 400 E. Abram St., (817) 274-8561.
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Source: Fort Worth Star-Telegram (Fort Worth, Texas)
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