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RESTAURANTS: For Seafood, This is the Place

Posted on: Friday, 24 March 2006, 06:00 CST

By Cassandra Spratling, Detroit Free Press

Mar. 24--The address says 11 Mile Road, but that's confusing. I suspect that finding the Bonefish Grill might be tricky for most people who don't know that 11 Mile cuts through the Novi Town Center. The restaurant more prominently faces Grand River Avenue on the outer edge of the mall.

Clarifying this is important because if you like seafood, this is a place you'll want to find.

We thoroughly enjoyed our two recent visits to Bonefish Grill, which opened in early February, from the look of the place to the taste of the food and the manner in which it was served.

Entry through revolving doors with porcelain fish as door handles takes guests into a spacious lounge area with an almost room-length marble bar. The drink menu is almost as long as the food menu, including a choice of 12 martinis.

Two large-screen televisions allow diners seated in the lounge to catch up on their favorite sports teams without the noisiness that can be an attraction or distraction of some sports bars. There are tables and booths for eating and socializing, including two communal tables that seat up to 12 people.

The main dining room is an open airy space with tables and booths covered with white paper. Subdued lighting and a high black ceiling add warmth to the classy, comfortable atmosphere.

The waiters and waitresses seemed genuinely pleased that we'd chosen to dine there and they were attentive without being overbearing. Managing partner Brian O'Hara says the waitstaff receives two weeks of extensive training in something he calls "polished casual," and it's evident they were good students.

While escorting us to our table one evening, our host whispered that if it was our first time we simply must try the Bang Bang Shrimp appetizer ($8.50).

And so we did.

And we're glad.

The bowl of large crispy shrimp on a bed of fresh lettuce was tossed in a creamy aioli sauce that packed a refreshing, spicy kick.

The other appetizers that we thought especially wonderful (there are nine options) were the crab cakes ($10.90), two hefty patties full of flavorful lump crab and served with two dipping sauces, and the Cajun Chicken Egg Rolls, stuffed with blackened chicken, roasted corn, onions and peppers.

The lightly fried calamari ($6.90) was tasty, but wimpy.

The salad choices -- Caesar or house -- can be ordered as a side or combined with an appetizer to make a meal.

Bonefish, a chain that opened its first Michigan location in Grand Rapids in July 2004 (there's also one in Sterling Heights), specializes in fresh fish. Among the entrees, Bonefish offers 10 grilled choices. Each is cooked over an oak wood-burning grill and diners select the house-made dressing of choice: lemon butter sauce, lime tomato garlic sauce, warm mango salsa or pan Asian.

There was no going wrong and we appreciated the opportunity to have it our way. Experimenting with sauces added to the fun. Especially delightful were the Chilean Sea Bass ($24) with the pan-Asian sauce, a spicy kind of teriyaki sauce, and the Atlantic Salmon ($14.20) with the warm mango salmon, sweet but not sugary.

Another seafood dish that was especially tasty was the tilefish piccata ($17.20). The meaty, yet mild fish was sauteed to a slightly crisp finish and drizzled with a creamy lemon caper butter sauce.

The chefs apparently aren't limited to doing seafood right. The Lily's Chicken, ($14.50), a fire-roasted golden brown chicken with goat cheese, wilted spinach, artichokes and a lemon basil sauce, was tender and tasty.

Most entrees come with a seasonal vegetable and a choice of garlic mashed potatoes, potatoes au gratin, angel hair pasta with marinara sauce, rice or a vegetable medley. And there are three desserts, although after a full meal you hardly need one.

But if your sweet tooth must be satisfied, we recommend sharing the Chocolate Macadamia Nut Brownie Cake ($5.70), a large square of delicious chocolate cake served with raspberry sauce, vanilla ice cream and whipped cream.

It's a sweet way to end a very enjoyable meal.

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Copyright (c) 2006, Detroit Free Press

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Source: Detroit Free Press

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