By Rose Skelton
FAJARA, Gambia (Reuters) – The young Gambian man in the
yellow string vest calls out to a European woman walking along
a wide golden beach shrouded in a fine sea mist.
“Hey nice lady! Nice lady, I want to talk to you,” he
yells. She keeps walking.
“It’s nice to be nice,” he grumbles as he returns to his
friends, his matted hair escaping from his cap.
The young man is one of Gambia’s “bumsters,” youths who
offer to walk with tourists as they visit markets and beaches
in this tiny West African nation and who fend off the
attentions of rivals for a small fee.
What is left unsaid but understood is the possibility of a
more intimate relationship, that could be a ticket, however
temporary, out of poverty.
A week-long relationship could mean three hot meals a day
for the Gambian man and a luxury hotel bed to sleep in, plus
money for beer or cigarettes.
“I experienced one time when there was a young boy who was
trying to get me to his house for ‘the real Gambian Experience’
as they call it,” said Wilma, 35, from the Netherlands.
“It was very hard to get rid of him. Yes, he was trying to
sell himself,” said Wilma, who did not want to give her
surname.
In many African countries, it is common to see older white
men with young local black women, but Gambia, along with some
resorts in neighboring Senegal, has earned a name as a place
for older European women to meet young African men.
Now a British hotel manager is working to get the bumsters
off the beaches and into legitimate jobs in order to improve
Gambia’s image.
OLDER WOMEN
Precise numbers for the sex tourism industry are hard to
get. A 2003 report by UNICEF said 60-70 percent of visitors to
one of the main tourist areas near the capital Banjul were
there for “sun relaxation and cheap sex.”
Flights from Britain regularly arrive with a high
proportion of women traveling alone, often visiting younger
Gambian men they met on previous visits.
A lasting relationship can mean continued financial support
— invaluable in a country ranked as one of the 25 poorest in
the world — and, if all goes well, a visa to live in Europe.
For European women, it is a chance to have a young and
potentially attractive holiday companion.
But for those not interested in a liaison with a local man,
being approached in this way can be unpleasant — and that was
what spurred British hotelier Geri Mitchell to create jobs for
the men annoying her guests.
Mitchell, 52, who manages The Safari Garden Hotel, a leafy
oasis in the Fajara beach area near Banjul, selected a group of
young men and sent them to train as tourist guides.
They now charge tourists a set rate of 30 Dalasi ($1) an
hour or 50 Dalasi ($1.75) for a one-off trip. The hotel offers
them a formal introduction to the guests.
The project, which built on a previous government
initiative to train reformed bumsters as guides, has provided
much needed financial relief to Lamine Bojang, a guide in his
mid-20s.
Bojang’s father died when he was young and so he is the
family’s chief earner, and he has to pay his siblings’ school
fees.
“In my family, I play a big role,” he said.
Before becoming guides, Bojang and his friends used to
collect firewood in the forest and sell it to make ends meet.
Now, they say, they are able to make a basic living and
they have earned the respect of the hotel and its guests.
SETTING AN EXAMPLE
Part of the guides’ training involves learning how to
recognize and report sex tourism involving an underage person.
The majority of prostitutes in the tourist area near Banjul
where the guides work, are underage, with some as young as 12,
according to the UNICEF report.
The U.N. agency has also said it is concerned the former
British colony is increasingly becoming a destination for sex
tourists as countries in southeast Asia take steps to shake off
their image as havens for pedophiles.
Mitchell said the tourist guides also help monitor sex
tourism.
“That’s a message that we really want to get out to sex
tourists: Don’t come, because everybody is out there and taking
responsibility for what’s going on,” she said.
Rachel, 25, traveled alone from Britain to Gambia for a
vacation and praised efforts to deal with the bumsters.
“I just think the worst thing about the Gambia is that you
can’t step outside of your hotel for a minute without being
hassled. I think the Gambia would be a much better place
without that. I think official tour guides are probably the
best way of doing that,” she said.
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